22 August 2009
It's happened to many gardeners who simply just don't see it coming. Sometimes grass, which can go towards making our green spaces look simply gorgeous, can kill. Particularly, it can kill young shrubs and trees that are simply not strong enough to fend for themselves against this wild, spreading plant.
Grass is tough to control, but it is possible. We know that, when we plant baby shrubs and trees, we clear a circle of earth around the plant to ensure that its roots are getting the correct amount of space to spread out in, as well as that the only thing soaking up the water and the sun's rays is the plant. However, grass is a quick grower - and it's not an uncommon sight to see wisps and curls of it creeping into our specifically cleared spaces, often having an incredibly detrimental effect on our shrubs and trees.
What's more, if you're growing a shrub, it can sometimes be difficult to see beneath the leaves and shoots, meaning that keeping tabs on grass growth can be difficult. The only way around this, really, is to check closely the soil around the base of the shrub to ensure it's still clear. You may need gloves to do this if the shrub is particularly rough, but it's as simple as lifting part of the plant out of the way or pushing it aside and having a quick glance. If you can't get into the space with a petrol mower, you should be able to simply trowel out the grass - just make sure you get the roots or it'll be back within days.
We all want to see our plants grow and thrive, which is why it's essential to look after them during the early stages of their lives. This could include frequent, extra watering, feeding and pruning the branches and shoots back to ensure optimal growth. And grass, as naturally as it does occur, is one of the biggest threats to healthy shrubs and trees, so never forget to make sure it's not overtaking the area around your young shrub or tree.
For larger spaces you can easily access, the best way to ensure grass is cleared and stays that way is to use a [http://www.wyevale.co.uk/Lawnmowers-+-Wyevale/129,default,sc.html]petrol lawnmower that will quickly and speedily take care of the problem for you. You can also use it to keep the rest of your lawn at bay to ensure neatness at all times. It's a handy invention, certainly a lot faster than manual mowers - so you can be sure of looking after those shrubs and trees with ease.
Paul McIndoe writes for a digital marketing agency. This article has been commissioned by a client of said agency. This article is not designed to promote, but should be considered professional content.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Paul_Mcindoe http://EzineArticles.com/?Protecting-Shrubs-and-Trees-From-Grass-and-Lawns&id=2381437
24 July 2009
With the Wimbledon tennis championships about to begin, many of you will be focusing on the perfect grass courts. So, despite my distaste for lawn nit-pickery and being the defensive owner of what can best be described as a ''laissez-flower'' version of the traditional British greensward, this week I will list seven better-class-of-lawn basics, starting with the most important.
1 Straight edges should be dead straight – use taut string, a proper half-moon edger and a plank. Curves should be broadly sweeping – for instant chic, iron out the nibbles caused by overhanging plants: laying out a sun-warmed garden hose and assessing things from an upstairs window is helpful. Every time you mow – and even when you haven't time – using edging shears to crisp up lines works wonders. Aim to keep front-row plants clear of the gully created by your smart edges and they will stay that way.
2 Use the right mower On dead-level lawns and on dry grass, properly maintained cylinder mowers create pukka stripes and give the best and neatest cut. Rotary mowers function well even on wet grass and less-than-perfect turf. Mulch mowers save time and effort, help to feed the lawn and control weeds, but are hopeless on long wet grass and never produce a really smart finish.
3 Mow little and often, particularly during May and June, but never mow very short. Lumps and bumps will be scalped, which not only looks awful, but encourages moss and weeds. Mow throughout winter during fine weather if needs be, but keep the blade on a higher setting.
4 Occasional chores make a big difference Compaction is at the root of many lawn problems, and aerating and topdressing the lawn in spring is the best way to strengthen turf by improving drainage. Use a hollow-tine aerator and a sandy turf dressing. At the end of summer, rake out dead and weak grasses, moss and debris. Bin the mess, don't compost it. In autumn, sweep matted leaves off the lawn regularly.
5 Weed and feed In spring use a high-nitrogen feed (there are all-in-one weed/moss controller-and-fertiliser products for those who favour them, although spot-weeding or gouging out the odd thug may be all that is needed). At the end of summer apply a specific low-nitrogen autumn lawn feed to strengthen grass roots. Do not add weed-killed grass clippings to the compost for a couple of months after treatment. As a quick pick-me-up for a midseason lawn, try an occasional soluble ''green-up'' nitrogen lawn feed, applied by watering can or hose mixer. Evergreen Mow it Less will do this without giving it a surge of growth.
6 Don't water during dry spells Remember that lawns always perk up within days of a good heavy shower.
7 Be realistic about trees Don't imagine you can achieve perfect grass by constantly reseeding under the dense canopy of trees. This is one place when even the most obsessive perfectionist should give up. However, lawns that have become weak and thin can be over-seeded in early autumn – do it after raking out debris, scattering grass seed mixed with a little turf dressing.
Origenal article by Helen Yemm
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/gardening/5551414/How-to-grow-a-perfect-lawn.html